Friday, 19 August 2011

20 days in a van : Part 7 : Days 16-17 (12-13 August)

As we were approaching the last few days of our holiday, we needed to head nearer to our return ferry port - Dieppe. But before we did that we wanted to pay a visit to Le Mans to the 24 Heures Musée.



Some of the early heroes ...




... and some of the cars










We then headed north to Rouen - campsite not good and weather was very wet.  This probably coloured our views on what is a very interesting city. 


Rouen is noted for its surviving half-timbered buildings




Other famous structures include the Gothic Church of Saint Maclou (15th century); the Tour Jeanne d'Arc, where Joan of Arc was brought in 1431 to be threatened with torture (contrary to popular belief, she was not imprisoned there); the Church of Saint Ouen (12th–15th century); the Palais de Justice, which was once the seat of the Parlement (French court of law) of Normandy and the Museum of Fine Arts and Ceramics


The Gros Horloge is an astronomical clock (dating back to the 16th century) though the movement is considerably older (1389). 



Rouen is known for its Notre Dame cathedral, with its Tour de Beurre (butter tower). The cathedral was the subject of a series of paintings by Claude Monet, some of which are exhibited in the Musée d'Orsay in Paris






Leaving Rouen we came across a gem of a chateau at Martainville

About 25 kms north east of Rouen this is a large renaissance marvel which takes your breath away, looming suddenly from a turn in the road.


The Martainville chateau was built as a country residence for a very prominent family of businessmen from Rouen. They were most definitely looking to display their stature in society with the grandeur of their weekend residence.


Built in 1485 by Jacques Le Pelletier, of the afore-mentioned wealthy family of business men from Rouen whose holdings were primarily in ship trade from the nearby Norman coast, the original design of the Martainville chateau was decidedly military in aspect, but with some very modern touches, such as the decorative glazed brickwork


Several years later, his nephew Jacques the second, Le Pelletier brought about some structural changes, modernizing the house even more. The moats were filled in, the drawbridge was replaced with a sculpted stone entrance and walls were built around the perimeter of the garden. Outbuildings were added to house the necessary stables, cider press and store rooms. He also enlarged the window casements, bringing in more light


It was during this time that he earned the title of viscount of Martainville, further glorifying his family by officially entering the nobility, a huge achievement for a bourgeois family of entrepreneurs.


Throughout the years after Jacques the 2nd, the estate was passed from father to son until 1757, when the family lineage seems to have been interrupted


The estate entered a period of instability and was sold from family to family. In 1905 it came into the hands of a livestock trader who bought the Martainville chateau as well as part of the lands. Under his direction, the tree lined drive was cut down, and the demolition of the castle began.


But you should see the size of their pumpkins!


The state government stepped in at the last minute and retrieved the estate. Unfortunately, the furnishings had all been dispersed by then and the castle itself had already suffered periods of abandonment as well as occupation by the Prussian army.


Finally, in 1955, the French government started restoration work and in 1965 a museum was opened in the castle, with the theme Norman arts and traditions.




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