During our stay in Porto, we ventured by suburban train to two place within an hour's travel.
Aveiro
is in the Baixo Vouga sub-region between the Atlantic Ocean and the mountainous
surroundings of its neighbouring districts
Commonly
nicknamed the ‘Portuguese Venice’, Aveiro is criss-crossed by canals. We went
for a ride on one of its brightly patterned moliceiro boats ...
... and
saw some of the sights of the town - pastel-tinted Art Nouveau buildings
On another day, we took a train to Espinho
Espinho
is a beach resort about 30 minutes by train from Porto.
It
is known as the volleyball capital of Portugal.
It
also hosts an annual Surf event organised by the World Surf League and hosted
2015 FIFA Beach Soccer World Cup
Espinho
also boasts the oldest golf club in Portugal and Spain
For more photos of our visits to Aveiro and Espinho click Porto Days Out
Tuesday, 3 November 2015
Iberian adventure - Part 2 - Porto
The second stage of our Iberian adventure took us by train from Lisbon to Porto
We travelled from Lisbon Santa Apolonia to Porto Sao Bento
São Bento Railway Station was inaugurated in 1916. Its name derives from a Benedictine monastery built on this spot in the 16th century.
... such as Battle of Valdevez (1140), the meeting of the knight Egas Moniz and Alfonso VII of León (12th century), the arrival of King John I and Philippa of Lancaster in Porto (1387) and the Conquest of Ceuta (1415). Michael Portillo visited here as part of his Great Contintental Railway Journeys series.
Porto is on the Douro river and originated and named Port Wine. It is also the birthplace of Prince Henry the Navigator. Porto can also claim to be the birthplace of Harry Potter; author J. K. Rowling was living here as an English teacher when she started writing her first book.
Known as the city of bridges, Porto built its first permanent bridge in 1806. This is Ponte Dom Luís I - the top deck is now for pedestrians, as well as one of the city’s metro lines; the lower deck bears regular traffic, with narrow pedestrian walkways.
Our first impression of Porto - in glorious sunshine - was that it was very picturesque, particularly along the banks of the Douro
It is considerably smaller than Lisbon and we did not need to invest in a travel card as we could fairly easily walk to the places we wanted to see.
Wildlife along the Douro estuary
Some of the city centre sights
The Clerics Tower, or Torre dos Clerigos was originally built between 1754 and 1763 as the bell tower of the Clerigos Church. It was built for the Brotherhood of the Clerigos and was commissioned from the Italian architect and painter, Nicolau Nasoni
These curious sculptures in bronze are in memory of the liberals executed in May and October 1829 in the Plaza Nueva (now Liberty Square) – this was during Portugal’s Liberal Wars and followed the Porto rebellion of 1828 in particular
Statue outside the Cathedral
We travelled from Lisbon Santa Apolonia to Porto Sao Bento
São Bento Railway Station was inaugurated in 1916. Its name derives from a Benedictine monastery built on this spot in the 16th century.
The station is well known for its tile (azulejo) panels that depict scenes
of the History of Portugal - landscapes, ethnographic
scenes as well as historical events ...
... such as Battle of Valdevez (1140), the meeting of the knight Egas Moniz and Alfonso VII of León (12th century), the arrival of King John I and Philippa of Lancaster in Porto (1387) and the Conquest of Ceuta (1415). Michael Portillo visited here as part of his Great Contintental Railway Journeys series.
Porto is on the Douro river and originated and named Port Wine. It is also the birthplace of Prince Henry the Navigator. Porto can also claim to be the birthplace of Harry Potter; author J. K. Rowling was living here as an English teacher when she started writing her first book.
Known as the city of bridges, Porto built its first permanent bridge in 1806. This is Ponte Dom Luís I - the top deck is now for pedestrians, as well as one of the city’s metro lines; the lower deck bears regular traffic, with narrow pedestrian walkways.
Our first impression of Porto - in glorious sunshine - was that it was very picturesque, particularly along the banks of the Douro
It is considerably smaller than Lisbon and we did not need to invest in a travel card as we could fairly easily walk to the places we wanted to see.
Wildlife along the Douro estuary
Some of the city centre sights
The Clerics Tower, or Torre dos Clerigos was originally built between 1754 and 1763 as the bell tower of the Clerigos Church. It was built for the Brotherhood of the Clerigos and was commissioned from the Italian architect and painter, Nicolau Nasoni
These curious sculptures in bronze are in memory of the liberals executed in May and October 1829 in the Plaza Nueva (now Liberty Square) – this was during Portugal’s Liberal Wars and followed the Porto rebellion of 1828 in particular
Statue outside the Cathedral
The Monument to the Heroes of the Peninsular War site
in Boavista district of Porto. The monument celebrates the Portuguese and British
victory against the French forces of Napoleon during the 1808-1814 Peninsula
War. There is a lion on top of the column - representing the Portuguese and
British; dominating an eagle, representing the forces of Napoleon
Porto’s Palacio de Cristal was once home to Portugal’s
version of London’s Crystal Palace. Like
the original Crystal Palace, the Porto version did not survive, although it
lasted until 1956, when it was replaced by the current construction. Today a
huge domed pavilion, the Pavilhao Rosa Mota, stands on the site, surrounded by
the leafy vegetation of the expansive gardens. The pavilion now plays host to music concerts
and sporting events with a seating capacity of 10,000
The gardens were originally designed to complement the first crystal palace by Emilio David, a renowned landscape architect.
For more photos of our time in Porto click Porto photos
Thursday, 29 October 2015
Iberian adventure - Part 1 - Lisbon
As part of our 30th wedding anniversary celebrations we embarked on a two week Iberian adventure which would take us to Lisbon, Porto (with days out in Aveiro and Espinho) and Madrid.
This post covers our first port of call - Lisbon, where we spent 5 days.
Our apartment was a short walk from this statue of the Marquess de Pombal - named
after Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, 1st Marquess of Pombal. He was
prime-minister from 1750 to 1777 and was in charge of the rebuilding of Lisbon after the earthquake in 1755 which devastated a considerable part of the city.
We invested in a Viaviagem travel ticket covering our time in the city - for 6 euros a day this gave us unlimited travel on buses, trams, and the metro. Needless to say, we made full use of it.
On our first full day we went on this tram to Belem. The Lisbon tram network first came into operation in 1873, as a horsecar line. In 1901 the first electric tramway opened. In recent years with the introduction of the Metro and expansion of the bus network, has led to a slow decline in the tram network.
Belém Tower or the Tower of St Vincent is a fortified tower built in the early 16th century. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The tower was commissioned by King John II to be part of a defence system at the mouth of the Tagus river and a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon.
The Jerónimos Monastery or Hieronymites Monastery replaced the church formerly existing in the same place, which was dedicated to Santa Maria de Belém and where the monks of the military-religious Order of Christ provided assistance to seafarers in transit.
It became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983
The decor inside the monastery is impressive
It was here that we came across the tomb of Vasco da Gama - the famous explorer
The monument was only built as a temporary
structure and it was demolished a couple of years after the closure of the
exhibition. The monument we see today is an exact replica of the original one.
It was built in 1960 on the occasion of the 500th anniversary of Henry the
Navigator's death
On our return to the centre of Lisbon, we travelled by ferry across the River Tagus (Rio Tejo in Portuguese) to Almada. For us there were some similarities with travelling across the Bosphorus in Istanbul. The bridge is the 25 de Abril Bridge ("25th of April Bridge”) connecting Lisbon to Almada. It was inaugurated on August 6, 1966 and it is often compared to the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.
The name "25 de Abril" commemorates
the Carnation Revolution - a military coup in Lisbon on 25 April 1974 which
overthrew the regime of the Estado Novo
Christ the King statue in Almada overlooking Lisbon - inspired by Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro
Whilst in Almada we saw two vessels in dry dock
Dom Fernando II e Glória a wooden-hulled, 50 gun frigate of the Portuguese Navy
The following day we went on a "chill-out" walking tour - here is our guide, Rafa, explaining to us the impact of the earthquake in 1755.
This was not a "traditional" tour where the guide takes you round lots of buildings and sights. Instead Rafa treated us to a cultural experience of what it's like to live in Lisbon - encouraging us to view it from a local's perspective as we strolled through the streets (back streets and main thoroughfares).
This is the Alfama area - the home of "fado", Portugal's national song
The Commerce Square
St George's Castle
Baixa area
There were many examples of highly decorative tiles on buildings depicting scenes from Portugal's history
Whilst on a bus ride we came across this aqueduct - the Águas Livres Aqueduct - "Aqueduct of the Free Waters". Lisbon has always suffered from the lack of drinking water, and in 1731 King John V decided to build an aqueduct to bring water into the city. It took nearly 20 years to build.
Lisbon is equally as impressive at night
Heading out to Oriente area we took a ride on the cable car across the Parque das Nacoes
This post covers our first port of call - Lisbon, where we spent 5 days.
We invested in a Viaviagem travel ticket covering our time in the city - for 6 euros a day this gave us unlimited travel on buses, trams, and the metro. Needless to say, we made full use of it.
On our first full day we went on this tram to Belem. The Lisbon tram network first came into operation in 1873, as a horsecar line. In 1901 the first electric tramway opened. In recent years with the introduction of the Metro and expansion of the bus network, has led to a slow decline in the tram network.
Belém Tower or the Tower of St Vincent is a fortified tower built in the early 16th century. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The tower was commissioned by King John II to be part of a defence system at the mouth of the Tagus river and a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon.
The Jerónimos Monastery or Hieronymites Monastery replaced the church formerly existing in the same place, which was dedicated to Santa Maria de Belém and where the monks of the military-religious Order of Christ provided assistance to seafarers in transit.
It became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983
The decor inside the monastery is impressive
It was here that we came across the tomb of Vasco da Gama - the famous explorer
The Monument to the Discoveries was originally built
for the 1940 World Exhibition. It celebrated the achievements of explorers
during the Age of Discoveries and the creation of Portugal's empire.
The
monument shows more than thirty statues of people who played an important role
in the discoveries. Leading the way is Henry the Navigator who is shown
standing on the bow holding a model of a caravel. Behind him are king Afonso V
- who supported the exploration and colonization of Africa - and the explorers
Vasco da Gama, Pedro Álvares Cabral and Ferdinand Magellan. They are followed
by navigators, writers, missionaries, a mathematician, a cartographer and other
figures from the era of the discoveries.
On our return to the centre of Lisbon, we travelled by ferry across the River Tagus (Rio Tejo in Portuguese) to Almada. For us there were some similarities with travelling across the Bosphorus in Istanbul. The bridge is the 25 de Abril Bridge ("25th of April Bridge”) connecting Lisbon to Almada. It was inaugurated on August 6, 1966 and it is often compared to the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.
Christ the King statue in Almada overlooking Lisbon - inspired by Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro
Over the past few years Lisbon has been a stopping point for cruise ships. This has affected the tourist trade particularly in the Alfama area of Lisbon
Whilst in Almada we saw two vessels in dry dock
Dom Fernando II e Glória a wooden-hulled, 50 gun frigate of the Portuguese Navy
... and a submarine
The following day we went on a "chill-out" walking tour - here is our guide, Rafa, explaining to us the impact of the earthquake in 1755.
This was not a "traditional" tour where the guide takes you round lots of buildings and sights. Instead Rafa treated us to a cultural experience of what it's like to live in Lisbon - encouraging us to view it from a local's perspective as we strolled through the streets (back streets and main thoroughfares).
This is the Alfama area - the home of "fado", Portugal's national song
The Commerce Square
St George's Castle
Baixa area
There were many examples of highly decorative tiles on buildings depicting scenes from Portugal's history
Whilst on a bus ride we came across this aqueduct - the Águas Livres Aqueduct - "Aqueduct of the Free Waters". Lisbon has always suffered from the lack of drinking water, and in 1731 King John V decided to build an aqueduct to bring water into the city. It took nearly 20 years to build.
Lisbon is equally as impressive at night
Heading out to Oriente area we took a ride on the cable car across the Parque das Nacoes
Views across Oriente
Santo Apolonia railway station
We travelled on this train to our next "port of call" - Porto
For more photos of our time in Lisbon click Lisbon
For more information about Lisbon click Guide to Lisbon
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