Tuesday, 3 November 2015

Iberian adventure - Part 2a - Days out from Porto

During our stay in Porto, we ventured by suburban train to two place within an hour's travel.


Aveiro is in the Baixo Vouga sub-region between the Atlantic Ocean and the mountainous surroundings of its neighbouring districts




Commonly nicknamed the ‘Portuguese Venice’, Aveiro is criss-crossed by canals. We went for a ride on one of its brightly patterned moliceiro boats ...



... and saw some of the sights of the town - pastel-tinted Art Nouveau buildings







On another day, we took a train to Espinho


Espinho is a beach resort about 30 minutes by train from Porto.


It is known as the volleyball capital of Portugal.  


It also hosts an annual Surf event organised by the World Surf League and hosted 2015 FIFA Beach Soccer World Cup


Espinho also boasts the oldest golf club in Portugal and Spain


For more photos of our visits to Aveiro and Espinho click Porto Days Out

Iberian adventure - Part 2 - Porto

The second stage of our Iberian adventure took us by train from Lisbon to Porto


We travelled from Lisbon Santa Apolonia to Porto Sao Bento


São Bento Railway Station was inaugurated in 1916. Its name derives from a Benedictine monastery built on this spot in the 16th century. 


The station is well known for its tile (azulejo) panels that depict scenes of the History of Portugal - landscapes, ethnographic scenes as well as historical events ...


... such as Battle of Valdevez (1140), the meeting of the knight Egas Moniz and Alfonso VII of León (12th century), the arrival of King John I and Philippa of Lancaster in Porto (1387) and the Conquest of Ceuta (1415). Michael Portillo visited here as part of his Great Contintental Railway Journeys series.


Porto is on the Douro river and originated and named Port Wine. It is also the birthplace of Prince Henry the Navigator. Porto can also claim to be the birthplace of Harry Potter; author J. K. Rowling was living here as an English teacher when she started writing her first book.


Known as the city of bridges, Porto built its first permanent bridge in 1806. This is Ponte Dom Luís I - the top deck is now for pedestrians, as well as one of the city’s metro lines; the lower deck bears regular traffic, with narrow pedestrian walkways. 


Our first impression of Porto - in glorious sunshine - was that it was very picturesque, particularly along the banks of the Douro


It is considerably smaller than Lisbon and we did not need to invest in a travel card as we could fairly easily walk to the places we wanted to see.





Wildlife along the Douro estuary



Some of the city centre sights



The Clerics Tower, or Torre dos Clerigos was originally built between 1754 and 1763 as the bell tower of the Clerigos Church. It  was built for the Brotherhood of the Clerigos and was commissioned from the Italian architect and painter, Nicolau Nasoni


These curious sculptures in bronze are in memory of the liberals executed in May and October 1829 in the Plaza Nueva (now Liberty Square) – this was during Portugal’s Liberal Wars and followed the Porto rebellion of 1828 in particular



Statue outside the Cathedral


The Monument to the Heroes of the Peninsular War site in Boavista district of Porto. The monument celebrates the Portuguese and British victory against the French forces of Napoleon during the 1808-1814 Peninsula War. There is a lion on top of the column - representing the Portuguese and British; dominating an eagle, representing the forces of Napoleon


Porto’s Palacio de Cristal was once home to Portugal’s version of London’s Crystal Palace.  Like the original Crystal Palace, the Porto version did not survive, although it lasted until 1956, when it was replaced by the current construction. Today a huge domed pavilion, the Pavilhao Rosa Mota, stands on the site, surrounded by the leafy vegetation of the expansive gardens. The pavilion now plays host to music concerts and sporting events with a seating capacity of 10,000


The gardens were originally designed to complement the first crystal palace by Emilio David, a renowned landscape architect.


For more photos of our time in Porto click Porto photos

Thursday, 29 October 2015

Iberian adventure - Part 1 - Lisbon

As part of our 30th wedding anniversary celebrations we embarked on a two week Iberian adventure which would take us to Lisbon, Porto (with days out in Aveiro and Espinho) and Madrid.

This post covers our first port of call - Lisbon, where we spent 5 days.




Our apartment was a short walk from this statue of the Marquess de Pombal - named after Sebastião José de Carvalho e Melo, 1st Marquess of Pombal. He was prime-minister from 1750 to 1777 and was in charge of the rebuilding of Lisbon after the earthquake in 1755 which devastated a considerable part of the city.



We invested in a Viaviagem travel ticket covering our time in the city - for 6 euros a day this gave us unlimited travel on buses, trams, and the metro. Needless to say, we made full use of it.



On our first full day we went on this tram to Belem. The Lisbon tram network first came into operation in 1873, as a horsecar line. In 1901 the first electric tramway opened. In recent years with the introduction of the Metro and expansion of the bus network, has led to a slow decline in the tram network.



Belém Tower or the Tower of St Vincent is a fortified tower built in the early 16th century. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The tower was commissioned by King John II to be part of a defence system at the mouth of the Tagus river and a ceremonial gateway to Lisbon.




The Jerónimos Monastery or Hieronymites Monastery replaced the church formerly existing in the same place, which was dedicated to Santa Maria de Belém and where the monks of the military-religious Order of Christ provided assistance to seafarers in transit. 




It became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983



The decor inside the monastery is impressive



It was here that we came across the tomb of Vasco da Gama - the famous explorer




The Monument to the Discoveries was originally built for the 1940 World Exhibition. It celebrated the achievements of explorers during the Age of Discoveries and the creation of Portugal's empire.

The monument was only built as a temporary structure and it was demolished a couple of years after the closure of the exhibition. The monument we see today is an exact replica of the original one. It was built in 1960 on the occasion of the 500th anniversary of Henry the Navigator's death


The monument shows more than thirty statues of people who played an important role in the discoveries. Leading the way is Henry the Navigator who is shown standing on the bow holding a model of a caravel. Behind him are king Afonso V - who supported the exploration and colonization of Africa - and the explorers Vasco da Gama, Pedro Álvares Cabral and Ferdinand Magellan. They are followed by navigators, writers, missionaries, a mathematician, a cartographer and other figures from the era of the discoveries.


On our return to the centre of Lisbon, we travelled by ferry across the River Tagus (Rio Tejo in Portuguese) to Almada. For us there were some similarities with travelling across the Bosphorus in Istanbul. The bridge is the 25 de Abril Bridge ("25th of April Bridge”) connecting Lisbon to Almada. It was inaugurated on August 6, 1966 and it is often compared to the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco.

The name "25 de Abril" commemorates the Carnation Revolution - a military coup in Lisbon on 25 April 1974 which overthrew the regime of the Estado Novo





Christ the King statue in Almada overlooking Lisbon - inspired by Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro




Over the past few years Lisbon has been a stopping point for cruise ships. This has affected the tourist trade particularly in the Alfama area of Lisbon


Whilst in Almada we saw two vessels in dry dock



Dom Fernando II e Glória a wooden-hulled, 50 gun frigate of the Portuguese Navy



... and a submarine


The following day we went on a "chill-out" walking tour - here is our guide, Rafa, explaining to us the impact of the earthquake in 1755. 



This was not a "traditional" tour where the guide takes you round lots of buildings and sights. Instead Rafa treated us to a cultural experience of what it's like to live in Lisbon - encouraging us to view it from a local's perspective as we strolled through the streets (back streets and main thoroughfares). 



This is the Alfama area - the home of "fado", Portugal's national song



The Commerce Square




St George's Castle



Baixa area






There were many examples of highly decorative tiles on buildings depicting scenes from Portugal's history





Whilst on a bus ride we came across this aqueduct - the Águas Livres Aqueduct - "Aqueduct of the Free Waters". Lisbon has always suffered from the lack of drinking water, and in 1731 King John V decided to build an aqueduct to bring water into the city. It took nearly 20 years to build.



Lisbon is equally as impressive at night








Heading out to Oriente area we took a ride on the cable car across the Parque das Nacoes



Views across Oriente


Santo Apolonia railway station


We travelled on this train to our next "port of call" - Porto

For more photos of our time in Lisbon click Lisbon

For more information about Lisbon click Guide to Lisbon