Saturday, 6 September 2014

Around Wharfedale - and a few Trigpoints

I have just returned from another walking break in Wharfedale. Once again I was based at The Causeway Campsite in Kettlewell.

The weather was kind to me all week and I made the most of the good weather to explore parts that I had not visited much before




Conistone Moor Trigpoint


Hubberholme



The church is famous for its mouse carvings on the pews


Limestone pavement


Wharfedale



Stepping stones over River Skirfare - a dry river bed at this stage ...


... but a mile or so downstream it was a rushing torrent


Horse Head Trigpoint


Hebden Ghyll


New Pasture Edge Trigpoint


River Wharfe just south of Grassington

This is a spectacularly beautiful part of the country - well worth visiting. As someone once said "I'll be back"

Grassington Moor Heritage Trail

Whilst in search of a Trigpoint on nearby New Pasture Edge, I saw a chimney in the near distance on Grassington Moor and decided to find out more about it.


Grassington Moor has a long history of lead mining with records dating back to the 15th Century at a time when the monks of Fountains Abbey worked a smelt mill. The medieval monastic estates secured their share, but the industry really took off in the 18th and 19th centuries when large numbers of people were employed in the mines, smelt mills and dressing floors at Yarnbury and on Grassington Moor. 


The mineral rights here were held by the Duke of Devonshire, and he provided the capital investment that allowed the mines to flourish. He built a large smelt mill and provided vital drainage systems for the deep mines.


The mines were very poor during the first 20 years of the 19th century, but in 1818 John Taylor was made the Duke's Mineral Agent. He built dams and brought water to a 15 metre diameter waterwheel, which he used to drive pumps in the Coalgrovebeck Mine, allowing production to resume 10 years before the drainage adit driven from Hebden Gill reached it.


Taylor also sank new, deep shafts which were accessed by ropes wound by horse powered winding machines. These shafts were linked by roads to mechanised dressing mills where the ore was crushed and separated before going on to be smelted.


The mines entered their most prosperous phase between 1821 and 1861, when they produced 20 273 tons of lead, averaging 965 tons a year and employed about 170 people. During this prosperous period, deeper trials were made to find new reserves of ore, but, apart from a rich strike at Sarah's Shaft, they were disappointing. After 1861, output fell steadily as the mines became exhausted


By 1881, the population of Grassington had fallen by 400 according to the census. These problems were made worse by the impact of rising imports, mainly of Spanish lead, which kept prices low by underselling English lead. Work around the Engine Shaft, at Yarnbury and Old Moss Shaft stopped in May 1880. The smelt mill kept going a little longer using up stocks of ore mined previously


There has been no serious attempt to reopen the mines since 1880 but barytes, fluorspar and some lead ore has been recovered from the waste dumps The largest of these operations were the Grassington Lead Mines Ltd between 1916 and 1920 and the Dales Chemical Company between 1956 and 1963.


The installation of the Grassington Moor Leadmlning Trail was carried out in partnership with the Yorkshire Dales Millennium Trust using funds from the Millennium Commission




High Grinding Mill




Wheel House


The chimney is well preserved


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A Victorian Story - "Lead Mining Days" gives an insight into what life was like in those days - see link for more details Out of Oblivion

A fascinating area and well worth exploring

Tour of Ilkley

During my recent stay in Kettlewell, I visited Ilkley - a town I had passed through many times without stopping to explore. I would put that right today!

The Domesday Book records Ilkley as being in the possession of William de Percy. The land was acquired by the Middelton family about a century later. The agents of William Middelton (1815–1885) were responsible for the design of the new town of Ilkley to replace the village which had stood there before.



In the 17th and 18th centuries the town gained a reputation for the efficacy of its water. In the 19th century it became established as a fashionable spa town, with the construction of Ben Rhydding Hydro, a hydropathic establishment at Wheatley, a mile to the east, between 1843 and 1844. Tourists flocked to 'take the waters' and bathe in the cold-water spring. Wheatley was renamed Ben Rhydding after the Hydro, which has since been demolished


lkley station was opened in August 1865 as the western terminus of the Otley and Ilkley Joint Railway (Midland and North Eastern railways). This railway offered two alternative routes to Leeds - either via Otley and the Leeds Northern/NER line through Headingley or via Guiseley and the former Leeds and Bradford Railway along the Aire Valley. The Midland subsequently built a branch from the latter route to Shipley in 1876 to provide a direct line from the town to Bradford Forster Square.


A further extension of the line opened in 1888 to Skipton via Addingham, Bolton Abbey and Embsay saw the station assume the status of a junction. It became a terminus again following the Beeching cuts in 1960s. In the late 1980s, the roofed area covering the western end of the station platforms was closed in and converted into a small supermarket



The Town Hall



Charles Darwin stayed in the town during the publication of "The Origin of Species", a visit which is commemorated by the town's Darwin Gardens and the Millennium Maze



The Manor House, which originates from 14th century, was formerly known as The Castle. It was built on the remains of the Roman Fort. It is now houses Ilkley's Art Gallery and Museum.




Ilkley's spa town heritage and surrounding countryside make tourism an important local industry. The town centre is characterised by Victorian architecture, wide streets and floral displays


Canker Well - one of several chalybeate springs (ie natural mineral springs containing iron salts) which were regarded as being beneficial to health. The waters were either drunk in copious quantities or freely applied externally. Following residential development the spring has dried up. The stone bath near the well is from the Shrine which was formerly part of Ben Rhydding Hydro. It bears a dedication to Vincent Priessnitz who established the principles  of hydropathy and who inspired Leeds merchant Hamer Stansfield to establish Ben Rhydding Hydro on land about a mile east of Ilkley.



Spa Well was another chalybeate spring which has also dried up after building works. The well is on the site of the former Spa hydropathic hotel. Opened in 1870 this establishment was favoured by the feebler patients with easy access to shops and other facilities of the town



The OS map of 1847 shows the lower corn mill situated on the east side of the ghyll. The area of Mill Ghyll was landscaped after William Middleton gave the land to the town in the 1870’s on the condition that it was preserved as “an arboretory with a clear and rippling stream” 



The Convalescent Hospital is an imposing building in the Scottish Baronial style. It was opened in 1862 and was built to accommodate the less affluent patients coming to Ilkley. Originally 50 beds were provided and the patients were allowed to stay three weeks with lodgings, board, treatment and baths free of charge.


I was intrigued by these steps - known locally as "Donkey Jackson's Steps". They are opposite Glovers’ garage entrance and now lead up to allotments. These are the last remnants of premises run by “Donkey” Jackson, who for many years ran a donkey hiring business for the benefit of visitors who were unable or unwilling to walk up to the White Wells – a house and baths at the site of the springs built in the early 18th century on the hills overlooking Ilkley.




Another of Ilkley's claims to fame is that it is where the Dales Way starts ...



... it finishes at Bowness on Windermere some 82 miles away.



On previous occasions - including visits to the Wharfedale area - I have walked significant parts of the Dales Way (including the final 10 miles from Kendal to Bowness) but have yet to complete it. Today I walked the first few hundred yards at the start.