Friday, 23 May 2014

A Turkish Delight - Part 4 - Kayakoy

We caught a bus (Dolmus) from Fethiye to Kayakoy

 
This is a fascinating and eerie ghost town which lies in the hills between Oludeniz and Fethiye.

 
It was hastily abandoned when its Greek population was repatriated in 1923 after the Greco-Turkish war

 
In September 1922 the British brokered a peace treaty and the following year an exchange of populations between Greece and Turkey - based on religion - was agreed

 
Some 1.2 million Greek speaking Christians were sent to Greece while 400,000 Turkish speaking Muslims were displaced from the Macedonian region of Greece to Turkey.

 
Following the Treaty, the compulsory (but non-violent) eviction of Greeks from this valley took place.

 
Attempts to settle folk from Macedonia failed ...



... and the valley was left with only a few peasant farmers overlooking the deserted village. They may also have been influenced by rumours that the Greeks had poisoned the wells!

 
We also saw some local flora and fauna - this looks very much like a Gatekeeper butterfly

 
 
 

A Turkish Delight - Part 3 - Saklikent and Tlos

We took an organised tour to Saklikent and then onto the ancient ruins at Tlos

 
Saklıkent ("hidden city") Gorge is 50 km from Fethiye. The Gorge is 300m deep and 18 km long. It is one of the deepest in the world, and is a result of abrasion of the rocks by flowing waters over thousands of years.

 
 
Around 4 km of the gorge is walkable after April - by that time most of the snow from the Taurus Mountains has melted and passed through the gorge on its way to the Xanthos River

 
 
 
 
On our tour we lunched at Yakapark Trout Farm

 
 

You can see trout leaping out of the water

 
We then visited the ruins at Tlos - one of the six principal cities of Lycia (and one of the most powerful). Tlos - with its Acropolis hill - once bore the title under the Roman empire of 'the very brilliant metropolis of the Lycian nation'. 

 
It is one of the oldest and largest settlements of Lycia (known as 'Tlawa' in Lycian inscriptions) and was eventually inhabited by Ottoman Turks, one of the few Lycian cities to continue it existance through the 19th century

 
The influence of many cultures upon Tlos has resulted in a patchwork of structures dominated by an acropolis and fortress. On the slopes leading up to the acropolis are numerous Lycian sarcophagi and many house- and temple-type tombs cut into the face of the hill.

 
There are also remains of an amphitheatre and an arena

 
 
The views of the surrounding area are superb


A Turkish Delight - Part 2 - Oludeniz and beyond

Oludeniz - some 8 km from Fethiye - is perhaps one of the better known resorts in the area with its famous Blue Lagoon beach

 

It has been voted one of the World's best beaches time and time again

 
It is also famous for its paragliding - off the nearby Babadag mountain

 

After about half and hour in the air, you land on the beach - needless to say, I did not try this!!

 
Instead, we took a trip on a boat to Butterfly Valley - this beautiful valley can only be reached by boat or from the Lycian Way footpath

 
The valley is located at the base of Babadag mountain and is protected by the World Heritage Foundation. It gets its name from the unique butterfly species, who have up until recently been the only residents in the valley for thousands of years.

 
There are also plenty plants and flowers to see, as well as a waterfall

 
 
 
Apparently there are over 60 different species of butterfly in the valley some appearing in the day time and others only venturing out at night - we didn't see that many!


Not sure what this creature is

 
Our boat also took us to Gemiler Island - also known as St Nicholas Island

 
On this island are the remains of several churches built between the fourth and sixth centuries AD, along with a variety of associated buildings. Archaeologists believe it was the location of the original tomb of Saint Nicholas.

 
The Island is only small approximately 1000m long by 400m wide but that small area is littered with the remains of an historic monastic retreat

 
 
The views from the island are stunning

 

This was our means of transport for the day

A Turkish Delight - Part 1 - around Fethiye

Last week we booked a "last minute" week away in Turkey. This was our first time in the country - it will certainly not be our last!

 
We stayed in one of these luxury apartments in Calis (pronounced "Challish"), a suburb of Fethiye - about an hour's drive from Dalaman airport

 
Two of us were "rattling around" in a three bedroomed (and three bathrooms) apartment for the week.


Although we had our own cooking facilities, we did not really use them, apart from breakfast. There were several good restaurants/bars within 50 yards of our apartment.


We were about half a mile from the beach. Calis Beach is a very popular holiday resort on Turkey's "turquoise coast". "Calis" means work in Turkish and that reveals a little of its history. It hasn't always been a holiday destination - Calis Beach was "Work beach" where a small railway ran across the beach to the jetty.
 
 

 
Calis is reported to have around 300 days of sun each year - and the beach is lined almost from end to end with restaurants.

 
Fethi Bey (1887-1914) was Turkey’s first aviation martyr. He trained as a pilot in England and joined the Turkish Air Force as a captain.  In 1914 he attempted to fly from Cairo to Istanbul for the first time but he was killed when his plane crashed near Damascus. Later that year the town previously called Megri was renamed Fethiye in his honour. His statue stands proudly in a square near the harbour

 
Fethiye is a famous tourism centre of South West Turkey with a population of around 50,000 which is greatly increased in the holiday season. It hosts tourists from around the world, as well as celebrities who choose to anchor their boats in the bays of Fethiye and Gocek. Fethiye is where Aegean and Mediterranean seas intersect



Fethiye is also famous for its pre-Roman Lycian relics ...




... as well as its football team - Fethiye Spor - formed in 1933


As well as a regular bus (Dolmus - pronounced "dolmush") service between Calis and Fethiye, there is also a more leisurely water taxi service from the harbour to Calis beach