Up, up and away - Tansley, Riber and beyond

Today James led us on a circuit around Tansley, taking in Riber Castle, High Tor, Matlock Bath, Matlock and finally the splendid Arkwright Society's Lumsdale Project.

For those who don't know anything about Tansley - which included me before today - it is 1.5 miles east of Matlock. It is recorded in the Doomsday Book of 1086 as Tanslege. Tan means a branch of a valley. Lega/leah means a wood/glade. So Tansley is the wooded glade in the branch of a valley

We climbed out of Tansley to Riber Castle ...

... a well known local landmark some 600 feet above the River Derwent. It's a 'pseudo castle', complete with four turreted corner towers and entrance block. It was built in 1863 as a private residence by the local textile entrepreneur, John Smedley (who also built Smedley's Hydro).

In 1892, the castle was bought for use as a school.  During the Second World War, Riber became a food store and it then passed into the hands of Matlock Urban District Council.  Over the years, the building deteriorated, but in 1963, the Hallam family established the Riber Wildlife Park there, which closed in 2000.

From here we had a splendid view of Matlock Town's pitch - they were to play FC United of Manchester in an Evostik Premier Division game later in the day. Little did we know that Matlock would win 2-1 in front of one of their largest crowds of the season - 1,319.

We then descended for a while before climbing High Tor. This is a lofty limestone crag which towers over Matlock Bath. It is reputed to be the last place in England where eagles nested. In 1879 the Matlock and High Tor Recreation Company leased the grounds from the Arkwright family and reopened the grounds in 1880 complete with new entrance from Matlock Bath and a refreshment building on the summit.

Although the grounds were bought by Matlock Urban District Council in 1924, the Matlock and High Tor Recreation Company stewardship of the High Tor Grounds continued until 1975 when the District Council took over the management and maintenance.

The view from the summit area of the tor is very impressive, all the more so because the cliff edge is totally unfenced and even those with a head for heights are likely to find the drop unnerving. There is an excellent view of Matlock Bath and the Heights of Abraham on the opposite hill.

For those with strong nerves - and we did have two such people with us today - a narrow walkway called 'Giddy Ledge' winds around a section of the cliff and even though this is not the highest buttress of the tor, the situation is impressive.

Since first opening its gates to visitors in 1780 the Heights of Abraham has remained one of the Peak District's most popular destinations. Originally the Heights of Abraham was reached on foot and required visitors to scale the steep slopes of Masson Hill. Since 1984 a visit begins with a journey on Britain"s first alpine style cable car system. Rising from the valley floor, the observation cars transport you in comfort and safety and allow stunning views of the Derwent Valley and surrounding Peak District. 

We then walked down, past these bones, to Matlock Bath

The Peak District Mining Museum is situated in The Pavilion at the centre of Matlock Bath. This former dance floor has been completely renovated and converted to provide a setting for the relics of the Peak District's oldest industry.

We then headed back up the hill to Matlock

In Matlock we came across this (now) rare VR Post Box. It is at the former post office on the corner of Matlock Green and Lime Tree Road. 

On our way back to Tansley we took a short detour to visit this gem of place.

The Lumsdale Valley is a small wooded gorge of outstanding natural beauty tucked away high above Matlock.  Lumsdale is one of the best examples of a water-powered industrial archaeological site in Great Britain.

In the part of the valley owned by the Arkwright Society at least seven mills remain, including a bleach works, all of which were powered by water from the Bentley Brook. By the 1600s there was at least one mill in operation, yet it was not until the late 18th century that the demand for water power reached its height.

The mills were put to various uses including cotton spinning, bleaching, and grinding corn, bone and minerals for paint manufacture. Cottages, situated near one of the Valley’s ponds, were created from a single building which once housed two lead cupolas with a counting house and smithy on the other side of the track. Industrial use of the site continued until the 1930s.

In 1939 it was purchased by Marjorie Mills whose passion for Lumsdale ensured its survival. Despite many offers for the building stone she refused to permit demolition of the mill structures, preferring to keep them as they were, surrounded by trees and undergrowth, offering a home to a wide variety of wildlife.

However, by 1976 she had recognised that she could not protect and manage her property single-handed. The buildings near the road were in danger of falling onto the highway; the dams which once retained the mill ponds had either to be pulled down or repaired; and these issues now had to be considered against a background of an increasing awareness of the archaeological significance of Lumsdale’s derelict mills and water courses.

Accordingly, the Arkwright Society was offered the lease of much of Marjorie Mills' Lumsdale estate on a peppercorn basis, provided it was prepared to undertake the preservation of the valley and on the understanding that it would inherit the area leased.

We all agreed that it was well worth a visit