Sunday 25 September 2011

Walks around Settle, North Yorkshire

The weather forecast didn't look too bad - indeed it promised some sunny days - so I set off for a few days in the van.


This was my base camp - about 2 miles north of Settle


The tourist literature describes Settle as "a bustling market town in the foothills of the Pennines amongst some of the most picturesque scenery in North Yorkshire. The town stands beside the largest outcrop of limestone in Britain - in a region of scars, cliffs, caves and potholes."


The name of Settle is thought to be Anglian 7th. century meaning a settlement. At the time of the Domesday Survey the villages of today were known by the same names, though rather different spellings, for instance Setel became Settle. But because of the rebellion of the north, between 1069 and 1071 the barons’ response was a campaign of genocide, burning and looting, so that much of the area was described as being “Waste” in the Domesday survey.

My explorations of the area included 


Stainforth Force - the river Ribble ran along the bottom of the campsite


The local football team - unfortunately they were not playing during my stay



Nearby Giggleswick School, where Russell Harty once taught and Richard Whiteley was a pupil


Pen-y-ghent - one of the famous Three Peaks


Photo at the trigpoint - taken by a couple I met at the top who happened to be staying at the same campsite and - believe it or not - lived in Banbury (my home town)



This is ranked joint 332nd with 16 other trigs in the Triggy charts



Horton in Ribblesdale



Winskill, as seen from the campsite


Craven Lime works - a fascinating site with a well preserved Hoffman lime kiln. This was the first industrialised continuous method of producing lime. The kiln consists of a tunnel about 3m in diameter and in an oval shape in plan about 150m long. There would have been a mixture of coal and limestone burning in the tunnel.


This site was chosen because of its proximity to the Settle-Carlisle railway. There is a trail around the site - well worth a visit



Langcliffe


Views over Settle



Attermire Scar


On route to Malham Tarn





View of campsite from Winskill


Stainforth

No visit to this area is complete without a trip on the Settle-Carlisle railway line.


The line is probably the most scenic railway journey in England. It has survived two attempts to close it - once in the early 1960s and later in the 1980s. Both attempts caused local and national outrage. However, fortunes have now changed as millions of pounds have been spent upgrading tracks and stations. The line first opened on 1st May 1876.
 


The line is engineered to follow the natural pathways through the hills of the Pennines. That is because the line was also designed for high-speed running to compete for Anglo-Scottish passengers. As a result, the local population were perhaps not as well served as they might have been. Examples of this are at Dent where the station is some 4 miles and 600 feet higher than the village it purports to serve, and Kirkby Stephen, 1½ miles away from its namesake market town.
 

 In the 72 miles between Settle and Carlisle there are 14 tunnels and over 20 viaducts. The service today comprises modern diesel trains with occasional steam and diesel charter trains, and frequent freight trains. 


Settle station was opened in 1876 and has one of the large Derby Gothic Style station buildings. It is one of the 3 stations which originally served Settle, the other two were Settle (Old) renamed Giggleswick in 1877 and Settle Junction which closed in 1877.






The station forms part of what was formerly a much larger complex including a goods shed, weigh office, sidings, cattle dock, signal box and water tank. Goods facilities were withdrawn in 1970 but even today the water tank and Station Master's house, although now in private ownership, provide evidence of the station's past



Photos taken on route from inside the train. The famous Ribblehead viaduct - 440 yards long with 24 arches - is close to the station


On reaching Carlisle - where the railway station is the Carlisle Citadel Station, ...


... designed by William Tite in 1847 - he also designed the London Stock Exchange -


I went on the City Walk - following the route outlined in the Heritage Trail leaflet from the Tourist Information Office


Carlisle Cross, which dates from 1682. It is a symbol of the authority vested in the city by Royal Charter to hold markets on Wednesdays and Saturdays and a prolonged market on 26 August known as the Great Fair
The old Town Hall - now the Tourist Information Office - the central part dates from 1669

 Carlisle Cathedral - known as the Abbey

The Citadel

Dixon's chimney - one of Carlisle's famous landmarks - 305ft high and was one of the tallest in Europe. It was built to take the smoke away from seven boilers in the adjacent cotton mill.

Carlisle is also the home of McVities's biscuits - now part of United Biscuits (which I think is now part of Kraft).

Carlisle Castle is over 900 years old and has been the scene of many historical episodes in British history. Given the proximity of Carlisle to the border between England and Scotland, it has been the centre of many wars and invasions. 


Today the castle is managed by English Heritage and is open to the public. The castle until recently was the administrative headquarters of the former King's Own Royal Border Regiment now county headquarters to the Duke of Lancaster's Regiment and a museum to the regiment is within the castle walls




Carlisle Castle was first built during the reign of William II. At that time, Cumberland (the original name for north and west Cumbria) was still considered a part of Scotland. William II arrived and drove the Scots out of Cumberland to claim the area for England.  He ordered the construction of a Norman style motte and bailey castle in Carlisle on the site of an old Roman fort, with construction beginning in 1093. In 1122, Henry I ordered a stone castle to be constructed on the site. Thus a keep and city walls were constructed

The most important battles for the city of Carlisle and its castle were during the second Jacobite rising against George II in 1745. The forces of Bonny Prince Charlie travelled south from Scotland into England reaching as far south as Derby. Carlisle and the castle were seized and fortified by the Jacobites.

 
However they were driven north by the forces of William Augustus, Duke of Cumberland, the son of George II. Carlisle was recaptured, and the Jacobites were jailed and executed. That battle marked the end of the castle's fighting life, as defending the border between England and Scotland was not necessary with both countries again one in Great Britain

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